Suit rules for the dapper gent

You’ve probably already heard that fit is the most important aspect of any garment you put on your body. But the’ fit’ becomes all the more important when it’s time for you  to don a suit!  An ill fitting suit can be an image disaster. You can’t expect to look dapper and gentlemanly unless you put your best foot forward, sartorially speaking! Amp up your suit style and follow these simple guidelines to  ensure you get more mileage out of your next suit –

1) When you invest in an Off- the rack suit the most important thing to keep an eye out for is how it fits you on the shoulders. A tailor can pretty
much work his magic on any other part of the suit, but if the shoulders don’t fit right, it’s time to try on a different size. Ensure that the shoulders sit squarely on your shoulders and that they don’t stick out or stick up.


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2) Match the color of your belt to the color of your shoes:  No one’s asking you to match the belt and shoes shade to shade but, ensure they belong to the same color family at the very least! Also, don’t try to stuff an oversized belt through the modestly designed loops of your trousers. Opt for a thinner belt with an understated buckle.

 

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3)  You’ve probably already heard this one before, but you’re going to  keep reading until you practice it- the width of the tie should match the width of the lapels: It’s all about balance here. Generally speaking, thin lapels are considered more modern whilst modern lapels are a bit more traditional.

 

4) Always button only the top button( in a two button suit)  and the middle button( in a three button suit): A lesson in tailoring- never button up all the buttons in a two button or three button suit. Suit’s are designed to cinch in at the waist there by giving the illusion of a perfectly shaped  inverted triangle body.  Generally, suit’s are taken in around the top button and middle button of a two button and three button respectively. With structured shoulders and a cinched in wait- you appear leaner, stronger, more confident and taller. That’s the power of a well designed suit!

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5) The cuffs of your shirt should be exposed about half an inch: To achieve this look to perfection- ask your tailor to keep the sleeve length of your shirt such that it falls just above the web between your thumb and forefinger and the sleeve length of your suit such that it falls just below your wrist bone. Voila! there you have it. Exactly half an inch!

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6) The suit jacket should be just long enough to cover your pants zipper and butt.

 

7) This is something I can personally vouch for- always wear a tie when you are asking for another person’s money. It offers more credibility.And, make sure your tie ends just at the waistband of your pants! Anything longer or shorter-  and even the tie won’t do anything for your credibility!

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8) No suit packs more power and authority than a double breasted suit.So, if you are going for more formal business attire opt for a double breasted suit. And for all those who are thinking- “Double breasted? My grand father wore those! “Well, I have news for you! Double breasted suits are back with a bang!

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9)Opt for a charcoal/gray or navy blue suit over black:  Why? Because Navy and charcoal are more versatile and go seamlessly with a variety of other colors!

 

10) A pocket square adds an extra level of finesse to your suit but remember that it should  not match your tie in either pattern or fabric choice!

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11) If there is a gap between the collar of your shirt and the lapels of your suit, then it’s time to pay a visit to the tailor.

 

12) When wearing a tie bar, make sure the length is shorter than the width of the tie! Nothing is more ridiculous than having your tie bar extend beyond the width of your tie! As far as placement is concerned, anywhere between the third and fourth button of your shirt is appropriate.

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13) Lastly, do make sure there is no excess fabric gathered at you ankles. For a more fashionable look, the pant hem should hit right at the top of your shoe. For a more traditional fit, the pants should cover the top of the shoe and parts of the laces!

 

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Author: Rohan Malhotra

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